Just across the road from the famous Tai Cheung egg tarts stand another venerable Hong Kong institution. Law Fu Kee, famous for their congee and fishcakes has stood for probably decades.
The congee is quite special. At first look and taste, it is like another congee from any other stall in Hong Kong...which means its pretty darn good. But look into the details, and one understands why the congee is special. The congee itself is ultra smooth. The rice grains are still visible, and not reduced to paste as some congee stalls tend to do. As you slurp the congee, the tongue can almost make out the grains, but then, they kind of pop, and disintegrate into a starchy fragrance. The phee tan and lean meat for which is used to fortify the bowl we ordered is good, but it could well have been any other ingredients of which LFK offers many.
To accompany the congee is their fresh dace fish balls. Deep fried, with flounder and tangerin skins added into the mixture before deep frying to a beautiful crisp exterior. The insides maintain a highly springy consistency. The home made clam sauce which accompanies lifts the subtle flavours. I love it for the chewiness contrasting with the crisp skin, and the subtle flavours of the dace, flounder and tangerine.
We also ordered a beef brisket noodle...in HKG, if you just order a "ngau lam mien", they will bring brisket and tendons in a bowl of soup with wantan noodles. If you want the dry style, you will have to specify. The brisket and tendons are very good as well. Tender, but still maintaining the sinewy texture, the brisket is full flavoured. The tendons are cooked till ultra-tender...almost melt in your mouth. The noodles are almost di regieur, and reminiscent of the old Mak's Noodles.
I revisited Mak's this time, and not only have the crowds gone, probably because the newfound Michelin fame has caused them to raise prices and franchise the business, but I feel the noodles were a shadow of their former self. I am not sure if I can call them "world's best" noodles anymore.
LFK's noodles were somewhat between the standard created by Mak's when I tasted it in 2008 and in 2010. So, pretty good. Indeed, very shiok.
NB: This restaurant also garnered a Michelin "Cheap Eats" award.
Law Fu Kee
G/F, 50 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central