For me, living in Singapore, the best I had come across had been Penang Place in Jurong, and Penang Kitchen at Coronation, which I reviewed here here. They represent what is probably the best in Singpaore, but somehow they fall short of the best that Penang has to offer.
Today's review is a new place I happened on...and to cut the story short, could this be the new gold standard for me in Singapore? Is their standard fare like Penang Char Kway Teow, Penang Hokkien Prawn Mee, Penang Lorbak, Penang Laksa, Penang Rojak better than Penang Place or Penang Kitchen?
The place opened about only a month ago, so pretty new. The menu was small, comprising 8 items - those reviewed here plus a fried rice and variations of the CKT and HKM (more/better ingredients). The interior is simply made up...more like a nice cafeteria than a restaurant. The interior is almost totally hard surfaces, making the place noisy when crowded...reminds me a bit of Ivins.
But on to the food...first, the CKT.
The CKT is quite authentic. Fried with nice wok hei. And using the thin rice noodles, no yellow noodles. Overall, very similar to what my mom cooks up, but with more wok hei.
The chef leaves the taugeh a bit raw, which is excellent. This shows good control of the fire, as well as timing. A good cook needs to establish good timing...like a jazz musician, using the recipe only as a guideline. And the prawns, which are absent in Singapore CKT, are fairly sized, succulent, fresh, and crunchy...sweet. Bits of crispy pork lard lace the entire plate...which is rather a large serving as well.
Note the slightly charred parts on the noodles above...crisp, smokey flavours permeate because of the wok hei caused by the very hot wok. However, compared to the best in Penang (goggle lady in Lorong Selamat, and Ah Leng's), I am afraid it falls short by quite a lot. But, as a saving grace, these icons in Penang are the gods of CKT, and for Penang Road Cafe, I would rate theirs probably competitive with the regular market CKT in Penang. This is indeed a great praise. Standards I am comparing to are very high.
What about the other dishes?
The Penang Hokkien Mee.
This is another gem. I think the soup is truly excellent. Comparable to the better ones in Penang even...only slightly shy of the best like the Super HKM. The broth is thick, sweet and savoury all at once, with a lingering crustacean flavour. Very nice. The noodles...always beehoon mixed with yellow noodles are a bit overcooked...and though this is quite normal even in Penang, I would prefer a bit more care and not overcook the noodles. The version served by Penang Kitchen was my former gold standard in Singapore. Penang Road Cafe's now unseats this crown, and is now the new gold standard for me.
Next Penang Laksa.
Unfortunately for me, this does not cut it. The stock and soup is not tasty. Lacks the sour tartness, and the richness of the heyko. Also devoid of the undertones of the fish stock. The noodles are also overcooked and very soft. The seems to be a lack of fish flakes, which adorn the better ones in Penang...my favourite being the one in Ayer Itam Market. For me, this round goes to Penang Kitchen.
What about the lorbak.
Lorbak...or meat with brown sauce...literally translated. This is like the Singapore ngor hiang (5 flavours), but usually done with less spices. More meaty, and with a delectable thick, brown dipping sauce. This Penang Road Cafe version is served without the lor, but the rolls are very good indeed. The skin, made of dried soy skin is excellent, and rendered very crispy. The meat is nicely marinated and very tasty. Excellent. I wish they served this with a proper lor. But good enough to be my reference standard for lorbak in Singapore...close, but not nearly enough to the Kek Seng Malabar Lorbak...and I would like to also see the heh chee...the deep fried, crispy prawn cake.
And finally the rojak
Another winner. Excellent. I suspect the paste to do the rojak is purchased from Penang. The best stores in Penang often offer the paste to take home and roll your own. The famous one in Gurney Drive is one example...and a favourite of my mom's. The Penang Cafe version is quite similar. The chunks of cucumber, bangkwang, pineapple and very small slices of rehydrated dried squid are all there. I would have preferred better tasting and more generous serving of squid. Also perhaps some of the sour tiny mangoes that are used in Penang. But for me, this version is quite good. Well, good enough.
Overall, this little place has set new standards in Penang food in Singapore. The portions are rather generous, and good value for money. The CKT, HKM, Lorbak set new standards for me for Penang food in Singapore. Very highly recommended.
275 Thomson Road
#01-08 Novena Ville
Singapore 307645
Tel: 62563218
11 comments:
Thanks Peter for an excellent review. Have been looking for good Penang food but left wanting.
Will definitely try out when I can.
Hi there, my dad's also a Penangite and we would like to ask about the prices of the dishes.
How much is the CKT, Hokkein mee and lor bak? How are the prices and portions compared to Penang Kitchen (we find it rather expensive)?
Thanks!
hi JY...the CKT, HKM are S$6 each. For me, better value for money than Penang Kitchen...larger serving, less money.
Thanks Peter for uncovering this gem. I only managed to try the CKT and the HKM and would say that it's worth all of the cholesterol! Will be back again next week with my group of makan kaki to get on with all the other dishes.
i can't wait to try laksa. havent found a good laksa in sg but i've been going to Bukit Timah Market Hawker for their authentic penang hokkien mee and really good penang char koay teow.. for the last 6 mths. so far better than penang place and pg kitchen.
Hi Peter, thanks for sharing the good food, I'm a Pg boy as well, living in Sg for abt 7 yrs liao, I looovveeeee Pg's food man, I used eat at York Hotel when the Pg Hawker's food buffet during school holiday 3 times a yr, have u try that b4?
I would love to go n try out the Pg Road Cafe's food man, thanks agian!
cheers!
I think the food at PRC was so-so. Nothing fantastic about the rojak. It was so sweet and fishy (too much prawn paste). Have to agree with u that the penang assam laksa lacks the kick and noodles were overcooked. Worst was the service, the staff's back were turned towards us when we tried to make payment and when I told them I would like to pay, the lady boss came out, stared at me and took over the responsibility of the cashier. She did not thank me for patronising her restaurant and gave me a black sour face ( as sour as her assam laksa). Horrible attitude, will not come back to that restaurant ever. If they continue with this kind of food quality and service, I doubt they will last more than a year.
nothing fanatstic at Penang Road Cafe. Service was slow and unattentive. I think the food served in Gurney Drive was much better.
I went back after some months...the food seemed to be a bit more commercial now than then. It was full house on a Sunday late lunch (arrived at 1:30pm) And the service is slow...took a long time for them to take the orders, and to pay. I wonder if success is too much for them to handle.
I did try Gurney Drive at Suntec with another former Penangite...but left both of us wanting real Penang food.
After reading your review, went there to try. Service wasn't attentive and slow. Food quality was average at best; think the CKT & Laksa at Penang Kitchen are better. Recently also went to York Hotel's Penang Hawker fare, still not bad after so many times that they have come here...good value at York Hotel for $30 to eat all you can!
bro cannot make it lah, price is one thing. Place is too cleaned and sanitized like a hospital. Again all run by FT.
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