Showing posts with label Well Tempered. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Well Tempered. Show all posts

Monday, July 26, 2010

The Well Tempered Wok: Imperial Treasure: Super Peking Duck

Lunch to introduce the world premiere of the MBF Horological Machine No 4

The world premiere of Max Busser's HM4 was done in Singapore...and a number of collectors, journalists were invited to view the timepiece and for lunch. The watch can be viewed in my report here. Here is the report on the excellent lunch.

It is one thing for a restaurant to specialize in a singular, spectacular dish, and quite another to proclaim it proudly as part of its name. As the name implies, this branch of Imperial Treasure restaurant specializes in Peking Duck.

Imperial Treasure is reputed to be a spin off from the very successful Crystal Jade. Many foodies proclaim the cooking at Imperial is even better than Crystal Jade. I have been eating at the Imperial Treasures branch at Great World City for a while, and on this occassion, had the pleasure to sample the greats at the Paragon outlet.

We started with starters...of course...which is a selection of 5 treasures...cured ham, jelly fish, slow braised mushroom and bean curd. Very nice. The flavours very intense.



A double boiled yellow melon soup with diced seafood was next:



The melon was used as a container...steamed till soft. The soup was rather tasty...with a good breath of the sea and a wonderful aroma.

Fish was next:



The fish was a lightly steamed cod. The fish was steamed just perfect. Fish, especially oily fish like cod is quite easy to overcook...rendering the fat, and making the dish unpalatable. Cooking it perfectly will make the dish come to life, and nothing more is needed but a splash of soy sauce, and aome sprigs of spring onion and ginger to coax even more out of the dish. Shiok fish.

Often, the simplest of dishes are the ones which show off the skills of the chef, but sometimes, a complex dish is needed.

The speciality of Peking duck is one such interesting dish. The duck is a prepared according to a complicated recipe...long and very skill intensive, laborious process to get the duck just right...perfectly crispy skin with a beautiful golden brown glistening finish, juicy succulent meat.

The chefs at Imperial Treasure are grandmasters at the art.

The entire duck is delivered into the kitchen, with much pomp and some fanfare...akind to how a 3 starred Michelin restaurant would present their piece de resistanc. Each duck, glistening in its glazed skin is delivered whole in its own trolley:



The glazed skin is the prized part of the duck. Like the Rochat duck which I had at Hotel de Ville in Crisser some years ago, which also glistened. This duck was resplendent. Beautiful colour. Wonderful texture:



Gorgeous! The skin looked like it is no longer attached to the meat within, but appears to be separated from its own flesh by a layer of air. Indeed, this is part of the technique of the Peking Duck. The chef appears...and skillfully, with just a pitched fork and sharp knife, removes the skin from the duck.

The presentation, as it is plated is also interesting:



Typically the duck is sliced such that the skin and a sliver of fat is removed from the bird. This is dipped into a sweet bean paste, and wrapped with a sprig of spring onion into a lightly toasted pancake. But in this case, the chef showed his virtuosity by not only delivering the duck in a somewhat traditional manner as shown left, but also included a small piece of pure duck skin...no fat, just brilliantly crisped skin, au natural. And advised it to be eaten whole with a touch of regular sugar. I must say, this is the first I have ever encountered duck skin to be eaten in this manner...but the chef knows his duck. Amazingly to me, the sugar brought out the dark mollass flavour of the skin (no doubt because most of the glazing is done with a mixture of malt syrup and vinegar). Perfect!

The rest of the duck is served in a duck shaped dish...skin and meat together.



This was also rather nice. The skin remained light and crispy and the meat a bit powdery...but not quite...still quite moist and juicy, cooked just perfect. Exceptional, and I dare say, one of the best ducks I have ever had, including several samplings of Peking duck in Beijing, Hong Kong and even the famous Four Seasons in London as well as the aforementioned Rochat at Crisser.

Fish maw served with live prawns were next:



Again, the chef's ability to control his cooking is well demonstrated. Perfectly cooked...the maw requires long cooking to render it soft and gelatenous in texture. The prawn only needs a short while to cook, as its meat is low on collagen and connective tissue. Both were cooked perfect, allowing the flavours of the ingredients to shine. The two small broccoli only adds to the color and visual impact of the dish, but also complements the taste of the maw and the prawn.

Vegetables were sauteed lettuce stem with lingzi mushroom



Incredibly simple...simmered vegetables - unusual choice too...lettuce stem, which is often just thrown away is simmered till almost tender, operative word being almost...a demonstration of the well tempered...still crunchy and have absorbed the braising liquid well. The mushroom had a great umami flavour, and complemented the vegetables well Tasty.

Noodles was in the form of Mee Pok stewed with egg plant in an XO sauce



What sets this apart from the $3 bowl of mee pok tar (bah chor mee) you can get at hawker stalls around the island is the braising liquid used. The mee pok was cooked just right...I am not sure if the Chinese, or Cantonese have the concept of Al Dente, but the term serves the texture, and feel of the noodles rather well. The sauce, which is also the braising liquid is quite specatcular. Savoury, it is rich and full bodied on the palate. Punctuated with spicy and pungent slices of cut chilli padi, this makes a very good mee pok.

The dessert is an unusual one. Two light steamed buns apperared. One lighter than the other.



Within the darker one, black sesame paste. Within the lighter one, a very light custard paste. Delectable.

I have included the Imperial Treasure Super Peking Duck Restaurant as one of the restaurants, which to me qualifies to be known Well Tempered. The chef(s) demonstrated their ability to select excellent fresh ingredients, but also mastered the control of the fire to ensure that the dishes are able to fully develop in flavour, taste and visual impact.


Imperial Treasure Super Peking Duck Restaurant (Paragon)
290 Orchard Road
#05-42/45 Paragon
Tel: 6732 7838

Monday, July 12, 2010

The Well Tempered Wok: Foong Wei Heong in Penang

I am starting a new series of blog articles...titled The Well Tempered Wok...it will feature special restaurants and eating places which I have eaten which features the traditional Cze Char style of cooking. Some of my earlier blogs may qualify, but I will not return to re-tag them, until subsequent revisits qualify them again for the Well Tempered Tag.

The first honour for this new title goes to an old family favourite, from Penang. Situated in downtown Georgetown, our family...introduced by my brother in law to the eatery...started eating there (um...for me, whenever I am in Penang...which is not at all frequent), on a fairly regular basis for perhaps a decade.

I had the opportunity to return to Penang once again for our school cohort's 30th anniversary...Penang Free Schoon Class of 1978/80. And went back to resample this little restaurant...to my surprise it is no longer little...now spanning some 4 shophouse lots.



We settled down, and ordered our favourites. First off, a speciality of the restaurant...spring rolls (choon piah) and spring rolls with koo chye



This was my late father's favourite dishes...but he being the foodie he was, had many...though choon piah...the deep fried spring rolls stuffed with vegetables and crab meat, prawns was one of his top ten. He would have been pleased with these choon piahs. Crispy...no extremely crispy crust of the rolls protect its valuable contents from the scalding heat of the oil...and renders them perfectly cooked...just right...not a tad over (this is what results from a well tempered wok...the chef controls the fire so perfectly, his mastery shows in the food...parts slightly charred with wok hei, others just right, and yet others barely cooked all in one dish at one go!). Everything comes together with this choon piah. Traditionally eaten with Ang Mo Tau Yew (white man's soy sauce...actually Worchestershire sauce) with cut red chilli...this is perfect. The koo chye was less spectacular, but the same super crispy skin protects the prawn rolls with koo chye.

We also had seafood in a claypot



This was a treasurepot. I don't know how many ingredients were inside this boiling cauldron of a claypot. The sauce was well balanced...salty but not at all too much, and very sweet with the flavours of the sea...if this was an Italian dish...it would truly deserve the accolade frutti de mare (fruits of the sea). Spiky sea cucumber, clams, prawns, with bamboo shoots, garlic, and a whole lot of other ingredients make this special.

We tried a new vegetable dish...sambal snow peas



Snow peas in their pod, with the ends sliced off...quickly stir fried in the super hot wok, with a delectable sambal sauce with dried prawns. Excellent.

And my mom's favourite...steamed slices of deep sea giant garoupa:



Deep sea garoupa is a special dish...I wrote about this fish in my report on Yuan Wei. But the way Foong Wei Heong does this was way superior...again demonstrating the well tempered chef's control of the fire...the fish was steamed till perfectly cooked...the meat was soft, tender, smooth...creamy almost, despite the deep sea giant garoupa's tendendcy to be firm, this was very tender...melt in your mouth. Spiced with only soy sauce, some ginger slices and coriander...this was superb.

Definitely a recommended restaurant for cze char restaurant style cooking for those visiting Penang.


Foong Wei Heong Restaurant. 23 & 25, Jalan Sri Bahari, 10050 Penang. Tel: 04-2611918. Fax: 04-2626918



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