More KL Char Siew: Oversea

with Larry, Luckee, Prof Horolographer, SJX and Kin



The last time I wrote about Oversea Restaurant at Jalan Imbi in KL, I had wanted to feature their famous Char Siew, and also introduce it to my Italian friends. But alas, when we arrived, it was sold out. This time round, we made a reservation the evening before, and also reserved a medium portion of char siew.

We were rewarded when we arrived for lunch:



Glistening in its fats...the char siew was still warm.



It was gorgeous. As can be seen, the cut is relatively fat, which imbues the meat with flavours, and also made it very juicy and tender. The meat was covered in a thick, sweet sauce, parts of it purposedly and masterfully charred to create a crisp exterior. Wonderful.

Immediately the next lunch after eating at Meng Kee, a comparison is rife. Both are extremely good, and I would call it a draw, but if forced to decide one, I would give the very slight edge to Meng Kee. The Meng Kee portion had a bit more oomph, a bit more X-factor than the Oversea.

We also sampled the exquisite sio bak, or roast pork:



Again, perfect.



That lunch, the sio bak was outstanding. Even better than the last time I had it. The skin was crispy to a fault; really amazing in its texture, and crunch as one bites into it. A small sliver of fat lingers under the crisp skin, and from thence a piece of lean meat. The overall effect of the crisp bite on the skin, to the melting fats, and the firm bite of the lean meat is excellent. Definitely rivals the 1 Michelin star Lei Garden offering in Hong Kong.

We also had their salt and pepper prawns:



The prawns were very fresh. The light batter clinging onto the shell was a bit salty. But deshelling the prawns, the meat was just right.

The vegetables were also interesting that it was cooked with macademia nuts instead of the more common cashews:



The vegetables were done just the right side of al dente...still crunchy, and lightly seared in the hot wok. Lovely.

We also had a hot plate of venison:



This was somewhat more average, but nonetheless tasty.

And also my favourite tofu:



Home made tofu, cubed, deep fried so that a slightly crispy skin develops, and then drenched in braising liquid in a claypot, so that the crispiness turns into a springy texture in some parts while retaining some crisp on others. Not spectacular, but very nice.

I have been told that Oversea is known to overcharge. But in my experience, I have never been charged what I judge as fair for the quality and quantity of the food. But caveat emptor, as I avoid ordering items on the menu listed as market price. The plate of totally awesome char siew was RM40, compared to a similar plate at Meng Kee at RM15; but totally different ambience. Oversea was a proper restaurant, air conditioned, and I can feel relaxed to enjoy the meats. Meng Kee is a dirty, greasy coffee shop, but with overwhelmingly wonderful char siew.

For me, both are mainstays for char siew in KL. And a must try for every visitor.


Oversea Restaurant
84 - 88 , Jalan Imbi
Kuala Lumpur
Tel No: 03 - 2148 7567

Meng Kee: Again.

with friends in KL

I have waxed lyrical about the char siew many times...see here and here, even crowned it best in the world. In a recent visit to KL with some friends on a foodie trail, I revisited many of my favourites...and the first place we landed was Meng Kee for the char siew.



So have I changed my mind? Absolutely not. This time, we arrived about 12:30pm, the char siew was still a bit warm. The fats glistening. The meat sensous and super-shiok as it slides into the mouth. The mouth feel is absolutely addictive. The crispy, sweet, charred outsides providing perfect counterpoint to the rich, smooth, slippery fats which are ably supported by some (yes, there is some) lean meat. The flavour is exquisite. Heavenly!



We also thought we should add a taugeh (bean sprouts) to balance the fat...um...to enhance the taste.



Even the taugeh is lethal...liberally sprinkled with crispy deep fried shallots and crispy lard bits...the taugeh is just blanched al dente...crunchy, a bit raw inside, but cooked outside. Drenched in soy sauce, oil and the gorgeous shallot and lard mix. Excellent++.

The ladyboss also "forced" us to order some chicken...



She just shoved a plate on our table, even before I had the chance to order anything. I had wanted to send it back, but one of our foodies thought it would be a good idea to add some variety, so we accepted it. Big mistake. The chicken was not good at all. Never order the chicken at Meng Kee.

But overall, the char siew keeps me coming back, despite the dirty, squalid shop environment. Despite the high tension atmosphere (assistants shouting orders, and generally an environment which encourages you to eat quickly and get out, rather than spend time to savour the great meat), the char siew is certainly THE BEST. Read about a comparison to Overseas soon.


Meng Kee
13 Tengkat Tong Shin
Bukit Bintang
Kuala Lumpur
Tel No: 017 -6388648
Open for lunch time only from 11am (but often by 10:30 it is ready)...typically finished by 1:30-pm, closed on Sundays.

There is a sign which says that they are moving soon. But no fear. They are moving almost directly behind the current shop...to Jalan Alor, next to Nova Hotel.

KL Black Hokkien Mee: Candidate 2

with Kin

I waxed lyrical about Wing Heng's black hokkien mee. I returned recently to an old favourite in PJ, which is almost as famous.



A powerful fire and the ability to control it is the critical component to the wok hei of a great hokkien mee. Fire fueled by compress air and kerosine is used in these huge stoves, so powerful, it will singe and burn food within seconds...and hence need a cook who is not only skilled at handling the heavy cast iron wok, but also strong enough to toss and turn the wok full of ingredents to make that wonderful concoctions that we call hokkien mee.

So on we go...first course, Black Hokkien Mee.



Black does not begin to describe it. Deep, dark...the noodles gleam in the light, and whiffs of fragrance rise to tease the nostrils as the plate is unceremoniously dumped on the table....this is no fine dining establishment...but a mere coffee shop somewhere in Petaling Jaya...but the food is heaven.

Unlike the one served in Jalan Imbi, this version had also thin bee hoon mixed into the mass of thick mee. But that is where the difference ends. Both had great mouthfeel...pork lard and crispy bits of lard pronounced itself on the palate as extreme pleasure. The slippery noodles, in the elegant...if I may describe the thick, black, slimy, smooth sauce as elegant...and the hot, spicy chilli belacan is wonderful. Excellent, excellent. I would be hard pressed to pick a winner, but if I must, I'd say the Imbi one is more fragrant, and edges the PJ one slightly. But both are excellent.

We also had the Kong Fu chao, but this was a disappointment...stay with Jalan Imbi for the wat tan konfu chao. There, the crispy beehoon is an pure inspiration with the soft, wok hei-ed flat rice noodles, and the beautiful sauce.

We also had a plate of Penang Lor Bak.



Somewhat similar to Singapore's Ngor Hiang (five flavours), the lor bak (literally translated as gravy meat) is sold semi-prepared and waiting. Take your pick from lor bak, heh chih (prawn fritters), tauhu, various sausages, fish fritters...and the stall owner will fry them up to a crisp and serve them.

The prawn fritters above are particularly beautiful. Super crispy batter smother about 2 mid-sized prawns. Lovely, lovely flavour...the prawns were fresh, the batter delicious.



And the lor bak itself was special. Meat, chopped and combined with spices, wrapped in a soy bean skin, and deep fried. Magic...eaten with the yin/yang sauce of lor (brown sauce with streaks of egg...this is a very special and beguilling sauce only to be found by hawkers who do Penang Lor Bak). Combined...this is absolutely umami heaven. The pork within the lor bak is both lean and fat meat, and packs the punch and flavour.

Even the coffee packs power...below the kopi-o...really black...and kopi with condensed milk. Thick, heavy mouthfeel, this makes one proud of the humble robusta bean used.



Excellent supper...except for the kongfu chao. Recommended to look it up.



Kedai Minuman dan Makanan Ah Fatt
Ah Hwa Restoran sells the Hokkien Mee.
Penang Lor Bak
# 66, Jalan 14/48 (directly behind the Shell station at Jalan 222),
Petaling Jaya.
GPS: Lat: 3.09743 Lon: 101.62938
Click here for a map

KL Black Hokkien Mee

with Kennard, Shashi and Ray

Kuala Lumpur - foodie paradise. And some foods are unique to KL...the essential eats in the Malaysian capital include two magnificent hawker dishes - the Fukkien Chow, and the Kongfu Chow...the Hokkien Fried (Black hokkien mee) and the Cantonese Fried (the ying yang wide hor fun/kway teow and beehoon in wat tan sauce). Quintessential.

Fried on a high power, compressed air and gas fire stove, hot enough to render a wok red hot in seconds, the cooking is an art in itself...tossing, agitating, turning, flicking, stirring.



The firepower of the very hot stove provides the essential wok hei...breath of the wok...essential controlled micro-charring of the ingredients, creating a smokey flavour, a hint of burnt meat and wheat, and the beginings of a Maillard reaction on the meats.

The black hokkien mee is served:



Fat yellow noodles are used. The noodles are so fat, they look like elongated udon, but yellow from the kee and possibly eggs used to make the noodles. The black sauce is magical...it is the right balance of sweet (very slight), and salty, and crustacean flavours from the stock. Fried in pork lard, the fat supports the mouth feel very well...but the taste is not one which is greasy, but rather one of extreme smoothness, allowing the noodles to slither into the mouth. Powerful wok hei is abundant.



Crispy pork lard is sprinkled generously, ably providing crunch and texture. This particular version comes with fresh prawns, and cuts of sliced fish cake, and sliced pork. A special belachan chilli sauce provides the oomph to get an extra kick.


All in a bed of raw cabbage...which by the time one finishes the noodles, has become cooked by the heat of the noodles, and has absorbed the flavours from the sauce...Scrumptious.

This concoction, provides an impact beyond the taste. It speaks to all the senses, and engages the diner...coyly encouraging you to explore the complex, beguilling, seductive taste...the superb fragrance. As one puts a chopstick full of gravy embalmed noodles into one's mouth, the mouthfeel, the taste sensation is extraordinary. Emotionally it satisfies some hidden taste sensors...blowing the mind. Physically it satisfies...but not till one have had one's fill...this was not a dish to eat tasting portions, but a full sized portion is mandatory.

We also had the wat tan hor...or Kongfu chow.



Wat tan, meaning broken egg...an egg is stirred into the hot gravy mixture of pork, seafood and corn starch, allowing it to cook as it is being stirred...making egg strips...a beautiful thing to behold, but also packs eggy flavour to the sauce. The sauce is poured over a mixture of pre-fried hor fun...a thickly sliced fresh kway teow, and a deep fried, crispy bee hoon. As one cuts into the wat tan hor...the chop sticks meet with the crunchy, crispy bee hoon on one side, and the smooth, soft, flabby hor fun on the other. Tasty. Special for this store was the addition of huge chunks of cuttle fish. This provided a very nice touch...crunchy, springy, beautiful texture contrast to the soft kway teow, and crisp bee hoon.

There are many stores serving this combination of Fried Hokkiens and Cantonese...but not all are up to the mark. This one is quite up there amongst the stars. I do remember a store in Petaling Steet which serves up an even more delectable Hokkien Mee, and one in PJ somewhere. But most pale....and this one is easier to find for the casual visitor to KL, especially if you stay in the Golden Triangle area.




Kedai Kopi dan Makanan Weng Hing
183 Jalan Imbi
Corner of Jalan Imbi and Jalan Barat
Kuala Lumpur
GPS: lat 3.14541
long 101.714869

Photo notes: taken without flash in the evening, inside the coffee shop...lighting was dark. Shot with Kennard's Canon Ixus 40 at autoISO...for some reason, the ISO is not recorded in the camera's exif. Apologies for less than usual standard of pictures.

Oversea Restaurant, KL.

with Prof Massi and Prof Francesca in KL

Oversea Restaurant has been a KL institution since its founding in 1977...I barely remember when was the first time I ate here, but it was a long time ago. Memories sometimes have a way of fading...and what remains are the great times we have had, and the feelings. Overseas left an imprint in me, with many pleasant memories about the wonderful food.

I returned many times, each time to re-affirm that this was a great restaurant, worthy of being an institution. In December 08, I took both my Italian friends to a taste of Malaysia.

When we arrived, the signature dish of char siew was high on my list...and even thinking of it makes me salivate. Amongst Overseas, Meng Kee and Soo Kee (by reputation as I have yet to try) are the holy trinity for char siew...in KL, and by extension Malaysia and possibly the world. The simple char siew is elevated to an art in these establishments. Kay Lee and Fatty Cheong's come close in Singapore, but my cigars go to the vaunted KL establishments. As I have blogged rather extensively in my Meng Kee post, the sticky, sweet, fragrant, tender roasted meat is supreme.

But as early as 2pm on a Sunday afternoon...they had already run out of char siew...rats! Disappointed, but still there were treats galore from their a la carte menu.

We started with an Assam Prawn Curry.



Served in a claypot, this was a piquant, fragrant, sour, pungent and spicy dish. The prawns were fairly large...curled up in their cooked state about 3cm in diameter. And they were very fresh...my test of freshness - crunchy to the bite, hinting on the fragrance of the sea, sweet was passed with flying colours.

Next by special request of Francesca, we had the Braised Eggplant.



The eggplant was rendered very tender, soft. And the various spices and braising sauce made this dish very pleasing and delicious. Francesca thought it was rather delicious...special. I agree.

The Home made tofu was also delicious.



The tofu was very fragrant...but this standard of tofu is common amongst top restaurants where the chefs make their own tofu. It was also very soft, tender...almost spilling out, but encased in a rather more robust skin. A braising sauce similar to that of the eggplant was used, and made for a great dish. Very nice dish, but not special.

In lieu of char siew, and to somewhat calm our disappointment, we had the roast pork and roast duck combo.



Typical of roasteries that specialize in roasting meats...they have perfected the techniques of brining, drying, slow cooking and charring. And most meats done by these specialists are of a standard too high to aspire to for more ordinary restaurants. The gold standard set by Oversea for their char siew made expectations for their roast duck and roast pork soar.



They delivered with the siew yoke (roast pork in Cantonese...spoken widely in the Klang Valley). The skin was super crispy. A thin layer of fat lay below to provide umami support as one bites into the meat. And tender meat below that providing the body and substance. This was very good roast pork. A more robust version of the very elegant roast pork served at Lei Garden in Hong Kong...a restaurant recognized by the cognicenti by a Michelin Star; but the Overseas version was equal in all aspects of taste, fragrance, mouthfeel, and shiokness.



The roasted duck was slightly disappointing. Don't get me wrong, this is very delicious roast duck. But with the competition as stiff as that provided by Kay Lee in Singapore, and Yung Kee in Hong Kong (albeit roast goose), this one fails to make the very top grade, and as a result fails to impress in a comparison test. The meat was a tad, mind you only a tiny tad, tough. The skin could have been crispier, and the fat layer below the skin could have been drained by more thorough control of the fire. Only with a comparison can one appreciate the fine differences. This is by most standards, very very good roast duck. If this was a French restaurant, say in Lyon, and coupled with the fanfare and pomp typical of the French restaurant - excellent service, beautiful ambience, I can imagine the restaurant to be at least a Good Eats award.


The accompanying sauce was top drawer. Spicy, very fragrant, piquant, it balances out the oily mouth feel of the roasted meats extremely well. I will highly recommend it as a dip for the roast duck, and possibly also the roast pork. Though, had the char siew been available, no dip or sauce should be prescribed, as this would mask the taste of the pork and thick smouldering sauce already covering the char siew...but I digress.

Overall, this restaurant has earned its laurels as a mainstay in KL restaurant scene. Were my fond memories of great food at Overseas well founded?...yes, they are safe...I will return to this restaurant again and again. The food is well cooked, and tastes excellent. And for Singaporeans travelling to Malaysia, very good value given the current exchange rates.




Oversea Restaurant
84 - 88 , Jalan Imbi
Kuala Lumpur
Tel No: 03 - 2148 7567

Meng Kee Char Siew, KL. Is this the best there is?

tapow from Kuala Lumpur, recommended by wacow

My favourite in Singapore is Kay Lee Roast Meat Joints at Paya Lebar. The Lady Boss roasts some great meats...sweet, fat and flavourful, and crisply charred (combination of caramelisation and Maillard provided by the sugar, herbs and spices in the marinade). I also love the char siew at Overseas Restaurant at Jalan Imbi, KL. These serve char siew as it should be...fat meat, marinated, sweet, sticky, charred till bits are crispy.

This trip to KL, although I went to Overseas twice in as many days, I did not get to eat char siew...I will blog about the lunch later, sadly sans char siew, but nonetheless still very good.

Anyway, in the excellent discussion over at the ieatishootipost forum , one of the super-makan gurus, Wacow highly recommended Meng Kee.

Intrigued, I took a short walk from JW Marriott to the street parallel to the famous makan street in KL - Jalan Alor, to Tingkat Tong Shin.


Unassuming shop lot, methinks. The roasted meat and boiled chicken share the workstation...hanging unceremoniously...well, meat needs to be rest after roasting...the heat from the fire causes the proteins to shorten which leads to tough meats...but a short rest will allow the meat to relax.

The char siew looks promising...charred, more black than red, sticky outer hints strongly of crisp, sweet. The meat looks sufficiently fat. The cut looks right...all the right ingredients for a great char siew. The tale is that the special secret marinate they use makes this crisp, and excellent control of a fierce charcoal fire during roasting.

RM20 got me 2 strips, about 6 inches long each. I bought them uncut, so readers can savour the charred, crisp look of the char siew.


Meng Kee - uncut and unplugged.

Back home...hand carried in the flight back...sliced for dinner (char siew was purchased about 11am in KL).


Meng Kee - the fatter cut.

One was rather lean, and the other, rather fat. The fatter cut was more flavourful, tender and certainly very shiok. The leaner cut was not tough by any standards, but offered more bite and was slightly chewy...the texture and the chewing brought different flavours to play in the mouth. I am hard pressed to say if I prefer the fattter cut or the leaner one. They are different, and can be enjoyed for the flavours each bring.


Meng Kee - the leaner cut.

Some sweetish, salty black sauce accompanies the char siew, but real char siew lovers will not dip the precious meat in any sauce, lest one loses some of the sticky, sweet marinate to the sauce.

Compared to Overseas, the Meng Kee meat is somewhat leaner , and less caramelisation of the sugars, though by no means lean or savoury by any standards. The Overseas char siew, in memory was also more tender, more melt in your mouth. It had a sweeter caramelised outer, more charred: on its own the outer crusty bits were a treat...crispy and had its own special taste. But do note I am discussing very small differences, I will be happy with either, or any listed in this post. They are that good.

In comparison, Lei Garden recently sampled in Hong Kong was more savoury...the balance of taste was tilted towards salt and less sweet. The cut of meat used in Hong Kong looks like fillet, with two rows of muscle, surrounded by fats. But the varieties sold in KL looks like its either belly meat (what is known as Five Flower Meat), shoulder meat or armpit meat.

Meng Kee is somewhat in the middle to strongly leaning towards the caramel/sweet stakes.

But certainly Meng Kee's rank amongst the top few I have tasted. Read also ieat's dessertation on char siew, and his recommendation of Fatty Cheong's.

Postscript: hot off the press. I went to Fatty Cheong's today (Jan 2) for lunch...and sampled the Pu Jian Tian and Shoulder pork char siew. Here are a picture of the armpit meat. Fatty himself was in attendance, and he was a jolly kind of fellow.


Pu Jian Tian cut from Fatty Cheong

Fatty's roast was lighter and the char siew redder than those found in KL. He said Singaporeans prefer a leaner meat and one which is less charred. But note that due to the ferocity of his fire, and perhaps some hot spots, when he fully caramelized and char the bits, the Maillard reaction kicks in, see the part at about 4 o'clock, this was crisp, slightly sweet, and reminded me of Meng Kee...if only slightly less sweet. I think the origin of the pork is also different, as the Malaysian pork used by Meng Kee and Overseas are local and fresh, and Fatty had to contend with frozen or chilled imported pork.


Shoulder cut from Fatty Cheong
Fatty also offers the shoulder pork. Amongst the tasters present - three men and two ladies, the ladies and one of the men prefer the shoulder pork as the cut was leaner, and had a bit more bite. The other two preferred the armpit cut.

To cut the story short, for now, I think KL is safe. They reign as the kings of char siew. And in Singapore, for my tastes the armpit char siew at Kay Lee is tops.

If there were a ranking...I will put Overseas and Meng Kee at tier 1. The styles of these 2 are similar, and differences should be attributed to style and intensity. This is a highly personal selection. This ranking will place Kay Lee very closely behind in tier 2. Kay Lee, despite catering to Singaporean tastes, is roasted in a similar philosophy as the KL brethen...sweet, charred, fat. Lei Garden at IFC is somewhat similar in ranking to Kay Lee, but totally different style, being salt led in the taste. Then in tier 2, but very slightly lower is Fatty Cheong's. I will eat any of these 5 char siews anyday. As a reference point, I will place the plebeian char siew found ubiquitiously in various hawker stalls are in tier 4 and below.

And finally, by virtue of reputation alone, I would like to add that I have yet to try the old favourite in KL - Soo Kee at Jalan Ampang.

Meng Kee
13 Tengkat Tong Shin
Bukit Bintang
Kuala Lumpur
Tel No: 017 -6388648
Open for lunch time only from 11am (but often by 10:30 it is ready)...typically finished by 1:30-pm, closed on Sundays.

Photonotes: the stall was rather dark...camera shake apparent in the pic of the hanging meats. Uncut char siew taken at hotel window, with good sunlight. Cut pics taken at home under PIL lighting, balanced using white tissue as WB reference.

The Fatty Cheong'shots were taken with a Canon Ixus 40.