Otto has been one of my favourite Italian fine dining restaurants. Always appropriate, always excellent cooking.
#01-02 Red Dot Traffic Building
Singapore 069120
Telephone +65 6227 6819
Fax +65 6227 8350
Email info@ottoristorante.com.sg
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| Pride of place, an huge burr grinder with electronic doser, and the Elektra 3 group espresso machine. |
Some bloggers reported that they re-appeared in Hougang some time ago, but every visit I made to the coffee shop in question, it was either closed, or the WTM stall was closed. I finally managed to find it open one day, and immediately tried a plate.
The original one as I remembered it was rather close to the WTM served by hawkers in KL. Thick, springy noodles. Thick black sauce, very fragrant with pork lard. And beautiful char siew with very good wantons.
The new one, reportly still being made by the same lady and her son, is slightly different. The noodles are still very springy and qq, but perhaps less than I remembered. The black sauce, still present, but a bit more salty than formerly. The char siew was still quite reasonably good, and the wantons were quite good...the boiled ones, light with an elegant skin, and the deep fried ones crispy and fresh tasting.
Overall, I feel it is a bit of a pale comparison to the former self, but still quite good, and still deserves a recommendation.
SIN HOE HIN WANTON MEE
Jin Hock Food Place
941 Upper Serangoon Road (junction of Simon Road)
Open 8am to 10pm daily except Mondays
Here is a tale of a rather new, and interesting roast meat joint...traditionally Chinese in character, but with a distinctly English feel to it...no doubt, as the owner is one UK born Chinese young man....plying his trade of traditional Chinese...rather Cantonese/Hong Kong style roast meats by using perhaps some Western techniques.
All the interesting talk is nought, if not for the taste...so how does it go?
We began with an order of their 3 meats platter...char siew, sio bak and roast duck
They also offer platters of two meats, or each of the signature 4 roasts (sio bak, char siew, roast duck and roast chicken) in individual servings by the 100g, min 300g. I guess this is for the large groups or for real afficionados.
We dismiss the passable first...the duck was not impressive. Rather normal, and similar in quality as one can easily get in the better hawker centres or food courts. But the two other meats were quite interesting...
The char siew was dark, brooding...promising a crisp, burnt finish to a rich, fatty pork. This is the dark, sweet char siew exemplified by the exponents of the art in KL. And indeed, it does not disappoint.
The sweetness seem to come from the dark sweet sauce smothering the outer edges, seeming applied only when the meat is cooked, or close to being cooked. I think the KL stalls not only coat the meat before slicing with the sweet sauce but as it roasts, building up layer upon layer of sweet, slightly bitter (from the charring) of the sauce, leaving a final beautiful glazing and burnt edges.
I would have preferred a bit more crisp and burning on the outer edges, and a bit less fat. But there was precious little to complain about. Quite, quite good...on the fragrant steamed rice...almost perfect. But just short of what is offered by Oversea (now defunct, and the tradition continued by Garoupa King), and the offerings in KL.
But for me the star was the sio bak, or siu yoke...roast pork with crackling..
Very nicely done indeed. The crackling was very crispy, very beautifully light. The meat was fat, but not too greasy on the palate. Nice. Very nice. Perhaps edged out from being my reference by the folks at Keith, but very close.
We also had the sambal kangkong, which was rather nice too...but suffered from being a bit too oily and a touch too peppery.
They serve nice English ales and ciders as well...though not from the tap, but by the bottle.
Overall, excellent place for roast meats. The ambience is more akin to a very clean canteen than a fine dining establishment. Service was ok...above average. We noticed the owner going around talking to the diners, but he did not come to ours.
Highly recommended.
Char Restaurant
393 Guillemard Road
6842 7759
info@char.com.sg
www.facebook.com/charrestaurant
The history of Madam Kwan's is rather interesting. Started by her son Dato Rudy Foo, the restaurant offers signatures of Madam Kwan, also known as Kwan Swee Lian or Sakura Kwan. I caught up with Dato Foo in an invited media tasting in Singapore recently, and asked him about the relationship with the Sakura Restaurant in Jalan Imbi, KL. According to him, Madam Kwan, or Kwan Cheh, as she is know in KL, was a beautician in Japan. She returned to her native KL and opened a beauty salon in Jalan Imbi. But somewhere within her is the yearning and longing to cook and share her passion for food. Soon after, she started a restaurant where the beauty salon was, and called it Sakura's. Sakura became famous, mostly for the nasi lemak, and awesome chicken curry. It was probably one of the first air conditioned restaurants, other than hotels, who offered local fare like nasi lemak, curries, and noodles. During the 1998 financial crisis, the restaurant changed hands, and Kwan Cheh started a small stall selling nasi lemak in 1Utama. Her son, Rudy, then was a stockbroker, and decided to invest in a restaurant in Bangsar, as a business, but also to help refresh her dignity. When KLCC started, they were invited to start a restaurant within, and the rest, as they say, was history. Now with 6 outlets in the Malaysian capital, and 1 in Singapore, they are set to expand, and showcase Malaysian cuisine to the world.
Two new dishes were being added to the menu, the first was otak otak fried rice.
The dish was created by crowd sourcing...the Madam Kwan's management went to their facebook page, and asked fans to suggest a new item for their menu. The one which got the most votes was the otak otak fried rice. Interesting that not more restaurants offer this dish. It was quite good. The wok control and powerful fire was apparent in the wok hei. The otak otak is made in-house from fresh spices and herbs and a smooth, springy fish otak otak. Marvellous. I just wished there were more otak...:-)
The next new dish is the petai fried rice.
This is a rather common dish in Indonesia, but the dish presented by Madam Kwan's was more familiar. The petai was fresh, succulent...the petai bean itself being rather large. Beautiful flavours. Very nice...but of course you need to like petai in the first place...and needless to say, I adore petai.
We also sampled the staples of the restaurant...the nasi lemak
My all time favourite. Wonderfully fragrant rice. With a magnificent, ultra rich tasting, mildly spicy chicken curry, sambal ikan bilis, dried shrimp floss and achar. The flavours are just perfect. The richness of the chicken curry balances with the acid of the achar and the sambal ikan bilis.
and the nasi bojari
Interestingly, a google search of nasi bojari ends up only with all results pointing back to Madam Kwan's. Yet, Dato Foo reveals that he did try to patent the dish and trademark the name, but the application was rejected by the Malaysian authorities, as it was supposed to be a rather generic Indonesian dish. Interesting.
Anyway, the dish is rather special. A tricolour rice made with stock, spices and chicken and prawns is served with a beautifully deep fried chicken leg, and beef rendang and assam prawns. Again the selection of the dishes were inspired...the richness of the crispy skin and tender juicy meat of the chicken, the opulence of the beef rendang, and the acidity of the assam prawns were just right.
We also tried the fish head curry
A very fresh red snapper head, is steamed and cooked with the curry and made complete with lady's fingers, tomatoes, long beans, brinjals and dried beancurd. Tasted very home cooked to me. All the coconut milk used in Madam Kwan is freshly squeezed...none of the industrialized canned or tetra-packed stuff. And one can literally taste the coconut flavours. The spices for the curry are made fresh from scratch, no curry powder is used. I found the fish head curry to be very good, but not exactly my taste. For me, it was a bit too rich (lemak)...but I am partial to the peranakan style fish head curry. But loved the fact that there were tons of vegetables in the dish.
For desserts, the banana fritters were a clear favourite
I understand pisang emas, or a smallish, Malaysian banana is used, very ripe, coated in batter and deep fried till crisp. Served with two scoops of vanilla ice cream. How can one argue with that. Very nice.
But the highlight for me was the chendol
Fresh chendol, with red bean paste sitting on a bed of shaved ice soaked in coconut milk. The over it, pour a beautiful, fragrant and sweet gula melaka. Wonderful.
A version of bubur cha cha was also served
I found this to be good, but perhaps lacking a bit in the dice ingredients. Sure, there was pumpkin, yam, and sago, but would be nicer if there were more of those, and slices of ripe banana and some of the tapioca gummy, chewy thingies. Or at least, that's how bubur cha cha is served at home.
Overall, the food is very good. Service staff were knowledgable, and because this was a media tasting, service was excellent. The restaurant is rather large. Recommended.
Madam Kwan's
Truly Malaysian Cuisine
#01-155 Vivocity
For years, we used to eat at and love the pork rib curry by Nana Curry at Marina South Food Centre...then they disappeared, only to kind of appear again at the Amara Food Court...I am not sure if its the same folks, as the taste, though very good, did not seem quite right to me. Then they too disappeared, when Amara went on their renovations. The new Amara, now smartly called AM100 is open, and behold, Nana Curry is now a little restaurant within. No GST, no service tax...open daily except Sunday lunch. Interesting. And throw in a few other cze char dishes for good measure.
But our first love from them is their pork rib curry, and that's what we went back to try, twice, to ensure that they are consistent. I am happy to report that the old Nana is back. Either that, or over the years, our tastebud memories have evolved, and the curry now served by Nana is the new good.
But excellent it is.
The gravy is thick, but not too thick...just the right consistency to be slurp-able...quite shiok to drink...spicy but not tongue numbingly so. Very nice, and now served in a stainless steel bowl with a flame below to keep the curry hot and boiling over.
For a regular 1 pax serving, 4 pork ribs, each about 2.5 inches in length are served...with half a small potato...quite sufficient. I prefer to eat the curry with rice, and they do serve a dry, fragrant rice which is perfect.
I can detect the pork rib is probably frozen, but the curry more than makes up for it. I suspect it is made with fresh spices, and fresh coconut milk, to taste so wonderfully savoury, so fragrant, with the kick of the chilli and spice. Very good, and addictive.
So now they are back, and as I said to Kin on our first visit...this is "crave-able" curry...and indeed it was, within a week, we revisited...and yes, it is still as good.
Highly recommended.
Na Na Curry
100, Tras Street, #03-14
I understand this cze char stall has been around for a long time. And now being run by second generation, possibly third generation of the original founders. The stall occupies some 4 stalls at one corner of the Alexandra Food Centre. Orange T-shirted assistants hang around the stall, and they are rather ruthlessly efficient, unceremoniously plonking down the plate ordered, and demanding payment when the last of the dishes is served, even when one is in the middle of eating...a practice I find to be rude. They should either collect up front, or after one has had the chance to enjoy one's meal. Sigh, but we do put up with these kind of hawkers, especially if the food is good.
So is the food good? Well, kinda. The sambal sting ray, is rather superlative.
The fish is very fresh, beautifully barbecued, with a touch of charring on the thinner parts of the fish, and a light crisp finish to the skin, while the thick flesh of the stingray is wonderfully moist and tender. But the star is not the fish, but the fantastically hot and tasty chilli sauce which smothers the fish. And the slice of lime with cliced onions accompanies the dish perfectly.
I find this sambal stingray to be quite exceptional. And certainly one of the best I have eaten.
The sambal kangkong was also quite excellent, the cook exhibiting mastry of the control of his fire and wok.
However, the hae cho was pittiful
Even with a cursory inspection, the lightness of the tone of the hae cho was suspect. It did have a crisp skin though. The insides were a bit hard...I hesitate to say tough, because it is not, but neither is it soft, tender nor juicy. The pork within was packed tightly. Tastewise it was nothing to talk about. Not good.
I saw many people ordering the salted egg yolk pork ribs, perhaps that's for another day. As there were only 2 of us for this dinner, we could not have ordered any more. The sambal stingray is certainly worth it, as was the sambal kangkong. But avoid the hae cho. For only the stingray, I highly recommend it.
Star Yong Kwang Seafood
Alexandra Village Food Centre
120 Bukit Merah Lane 1
#01-04